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  BMW Forums » BMW discussion forums » General BMW
  trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

 trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!



After exploring the remote key central locking issues (blown fuse likely caused by bad fuel door actuator), I still have another problem. I am not sure if it is contributing to the blown fuses for the central locking system or if it is a separate issue, but here's the deal. I noticed that my trunk lid was not aligned properly because the wiring bundle on the upper passenger side keeps getting pinched in between the lid and the bottom of the back glass. Make sense? When you close the lid that bundle curls up and gets in the way of the lid closing properly. At the same time, I have always had issues with the trunk lid actuator firing when it shouldn't preventing the lid from closing shut and sometimes even popping open as I'm driving down the road. I replaced the actuator, but the problem persists. Anyway, while I was elbows deep in the trunk this weekend fishing the fuel door lid cable through after replacing that actuator (because of the locking issue) I kept bumping that trunk lid wiring bundle. each time I bumped it or tweaked it or touched it at all, the lid actuator went off. It seems that from being pinched in the way so many times when closing the lid, there must be some really frayed or bent up wires inside the bundle that short circuit any time you touch the bundle which explains why it misfires all the time. Soooo, is there any way to replace this bundle without gutting the whole back end of the car, or should I slice open the protective sheath, and resplice/solder the wires inside then rewrap it? How can I keep it from getting caught in the trunk lid when closing it? Anyone else have this problem before or is my car retarded?
   Reply » trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

Quote:
After exploring the remote key central locking issues (blown fuse likely caused by bad fuel door actuator), I still have another problem. I am not sure if it is contributing to the blown fuses for the central locking system or if it is a separate issue, but here's the deal. I noticed that my trunk lid was not aligned properly because the wiring bundle on the upper passenger side keeps getting pinched in between the lid and the bottom of the back glass. Make sense? When you close the lid that bundle curls up and gets in the way of the lid closing properly. At the same time, I have always had issues with the trunk lid actuator firing when it shouldn't preventing the lid from closing shut and sometimes even popping open as I'm driving down the road. I replaced the actuator, but the problem persists. Anyway, while I was elbows deep in the trunk this weekend fishing the fuel door lid cable through after replacing that actuator (because of the locking issue) I kept bumping that trunk lid wiring bundle. each time I bumped it or tweaked it or touched it at all, the lid actuator went off. It seems that from being pinched in the way so many times when closing the lid, there must be some really frayed or bent up wires inside the bundle that short circuit any time you touch the bundle which explains why it misfires all the time. Soooo, is there any way to replace this bundle without gutting the whole back end of the car, or should I slice open the protective sheath, and resplice/solder the wires inside then rewrap it? How can I keep it from getting caught in the trunk lid when closing it? Anyone else have this problem before or is my car retarded?
Well, my suspicions were proven true. The trunk wiring harness is completely frayed and shot, which was causing it to short and blow the fuse that controls all the central locking. I have been quoted a $200 part to replace it, but the kicker is that it will be about 8 hours labor, for a total of about $1000. Is this something I can replace myself? From talking to the shop, it would mean taking out the back seat and some other interior pieces. Does anyone know where the harness terminates or connects on the forward end? Any advice would be great.

   Reply » trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

Same thing happened to my car although mine was still under warranty. It is a common enough problem that BMW sells just the tail end of the needed harness section (about 5 feet long) But to install it, the rear part of the headliner has to come down. So 8 hours is a little long but not outrageously so. If I were you, I'd take it to an independent or even a car stereo shop and have them just slide take the rubber flex portion up a few inches and just rewire it with new wiring. I'd doubt they would even charge you half of what the dealer wants.

I should add that this half section of harness from BMW does not have a plug on the forward end so you doing it yourself with just new wire would be similar to what the dealer would ultimately do.

   Reply » trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

Quote:
or should I slice open the protective sheath, and resplice/solder the wires inside then rewrap it?
Gets my vote...

   Reply » trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

Quote:
Gets my vote...


Splicing is ok, but if you replace any wire, make sure it is of the same gauge, not smaller or larger. I have seen going to a larger gauge cause problems, and smaller will overheat.

   Reply » trunk lid wiring is pinched, help!

The same thing happened with my car. My car is still under the CPO warranty but the dealer refused to repair it under warranty. They said it's a wear and tear item. BMW NA said whatever the dealer says goes. Has anyone had success getting this fixed under a CPO warranty?


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