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Paint Question
Hi All;
I have a 2002 Z3 3.0 with Jet Black paint. I purchased the car CPO and it had a quite a few chips on the hood. I would imagine too many trips in the desert...
Question is, I am getting my hood repainted. How many costs of paint and coats of clearcoat should I be getting and/or demand? I want to walk in educated, anything else I should ask? Is it better to leave a coat of paint on, or do they need to take it down to metal?
Thanks for your help!
| | Reply » Paint Question |
One or two coats of basecoat is sufficient. Two to three clearcoats may be of benefit.
Personally, I would not strip the hood down to "bare" metal. No aftermarket collision/paint shop can apply the primer coat as well as the factory process. Period!
Just "feather" and then fill the chips will spot putty (more than one application, due to the putty shrinking as it dries). Apply primer/sealer to the affected areas and lightly sand the entire surface (breaking through the clearcoat and into the basecoat is adequate; exposing some primer is okay).
But hey, what do I know? 
| | Reply » Paint Question |
Appreciate your response!
| | Reply » Paint Question |
Any idea what it would cost to repaint the rear hatch on a M Coupe arctic silver?
| | Reply » Paint Question |
Make sure the bodyshop uses BMW approved paint line.
If your hood has never painted before you should not have any problems paint over the factory clear.
As for the number of coats, it does not really matter how many coats of base and clear the painter puts down as long as you have good coverage and proper mils of clear.
Good luck!
| | Reply » Paint Question |
Well this question depends on the shop, and how much they charge. If they repaint the entire hood, it means they must sand off the entire hood to either metal, or primer, spot putty the dings, re primer, usually 3 to 4 mils of basecoat, one gets sanded off, and then around 3 to 4 coats of clear depending if they will sand the clear or not. This also depends on what the factory finish looks like. If they do, they will then go in and use a polishing system to bring the clear up to a high gloss. It all depends on how bad the hood is. As stated earlier, if all the chips are close together that area may be sanded down, reprimered, resprayed and feathered, and the recleared. Most reputable shops will do a good job, and will be able to pick the right method for fixing paint. Oh and another thing, even if you buy factory colored paint, it my not always match perfectly in color, black is easier to match than most, but feathering will take care of that, and no one will notice any change. When sanding the clear though you should not sand past the clear. The basecoat to a base clear system is not as resistant as the clear is to weather etc. and will look dull. The pain will also wear out faster. If a shop notices that they sanded through the clear, they will add more coats of clear. If they sand though the basecoat, they have to sand off the clear ad respray the basecoat.
Aftermarket shops can actually get the primer on there better than factory, its just that the factory paints all the pieces before assembly so they require no taping etc. Aftermarket shops can also do this, but the cost is high. Aftermarket shops also take time to color sand at every step to make sure the finished paint is perfectly smooth and looks like glass. Factory paint jobs tend to have what is called orange peel, where the paint has a slight texture on it. Having each production car sanded that way would be exremely expensive to do. After the hood has been painted its best to get a breathable car cover, and make sure not to wax it for at least 180 days until the paint completely outgasses. Sorry for the novel, but there is a lot to painting, and it still is considered an art. The finish you get depends on who you go to and how much you are willing to spend. Enjoy!
Dan
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Paint Question