Scott, your reply to my post on Toadfly® Z3 Roadster forum was deleted/not available for my viewing pleasure. What were the tricks?
I was having the bogging motor syndrome after re-installing the drivers seat. (I only replaced one side with D.W's Teflon bushings due to limited time allowed). Bushing block installed on the screw rod correctly...
Reply » Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
There were several issues we found during the bushing replacement:
1. Be sure the bushing is seated fully into the carrier, you do NOT want the treaded rod making contact and dragging on the bushing.
2. Both carriers must be aligned on the rods (same distance from the end). The easiest way to do this for us was to pull both rods and place them side by side and verify.
3. The rod is attached to the anchor @ the rear of the seat rail via a press fit connection that rotates - be sure to hit this with some 3-in-1 or equivalent to make sure it spins freely.
4. Make sure the rod has enough lube and spins freely through the carrier.
5. Make sure when doing seat reconnection that no wires, etc. are impeding the seat movement.
Don't feel bad - we had the seats in and out of my roadster about 8 times going over this ~ that's why I can give you a good list of things to check.
Hope this helps - #2 and 3 seem to be the biggest culprits we have found.
Eric
Reply » Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
Eric's got good hints in the post above and here's some more:
1) I saw the one thing where you could not get to both Torx screws easily once the seat was out. The trick for that is to move the seat back pretty far before removing it from the car. Our order of removal is a) but seat forward and remover rear bolts b) move seat back and remove front bolts. Eric5150 and Roadsterwench will vouch for that one
2) Eric also found that when putting the drive screw back in, aling the holes for the small torx at the front and check how well the holes for the end of the drive screw line up with the hole (for the T-50 screw) in the seat rail. Good alignment reduces resistance.
3) after the seat re-assembly, re-install the seat per the order and torque instructions on the Ron Stygar site.
I'll see if I have a pic I can post to show where Eric is talking about putting the 3-in-1 (or equivalent) lubricant in his item #3.
Reply » Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
Here's a pic.
See the location in the upper right corner that has a kind of light blue dot? That is the location where the aft end of the drive screw (the attachment hole is to the left of the blue dot) attaches to the seat rail and the aft end of the drive screw pivots in that piece. A lot of friction/resistance there. That hole to the right is the place to check the hole alignment after putting in the T-26 screws as Eric is doing in the pic.
Reply » Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
Here is a pic detailing what we are referring to:
Reply » Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
Many Thanks, that should cover it... I'll hook-up my Sears 12Volt Conforti Power system to run the rails before re-installing. Red & black to the white power connector. The black connector is for heater? (this site is soooo much better/easier than.....)
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Whalen seat bushing tricks? (scottn2R?)
