 Randy- Paul from Strong Strut suggested I contact you regarding the butt strut on my 2000 MZ3 Coupe. I live in NY- so naturally I have banged that bar on many raised manhole covers and curbs. With the HR Springs that lower the car over an inch and 18 inch wheels with 45 profiles- the car sits pretty low already. Sub chassis bolt ( OEM Stud) is bent not alot but enough to tell that the strut across the botton is back at a 15 degree angle..do I need to replace the studs? Do you think that the bent studs are causing torque on the chassis? Lastly- Can I do this at home with out the whole rear sub chassis assembly falling on me? I am competent- but limited in tools and no lift  Ps- to anyone reading the post- the butt strut is awesome- a little heavy but awesome.It really buttons up the rear and keeps the ass where it needs to be ..even in lift throttle turn in which can be a hair raising experience in the coupe  |
| Reply » Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!! |
Quote: Randy- Paul from Strong Strut suggested I contact you regarding the butt strut on my 2000 MZ3 Coupe. I live in NY- so naturally I have banged that bar on many raised manhole covers and curbs. With the HR Springs that lower the car over an inch and 18 inch wheels with 45 profiles- the car sits pretty low already.
Sub chassis bolt ( OEM Stud) is bent not alot but enough to tell that the strut across the botton is back at a 15 degree angle..do I need to replace the studs? Do you think that the bent studs are causing torque on the chassis? | Sigh, why couldn't Paul handle this one himself?
Assuming only one or both of the studs is bent (and not the pieces they bolt into), your main concern would be alignment until you replace the studs. If you _really_ whacked it, there could be a drivetrain issue long-term, but you shouldn't be driving it long enough before fixing for that to be a huge concern.
Quote: Lastly- Can I do this at home with out the whole rear sub chassis assembly falling on me?
I am competent- but limited in tools and no lift | Yes if you have a jack, jackstands, tools, etc. Subframe will need to be lowered some to get the studs out. You'll want the wheel well liners out so you can see what you're doing, but those are relatively easy to remove.
Perfect time to put the Ireland subframe bushings in too.
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| Reply » Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!! |
Are these replacements to the bushing that the stud bolt passes through? Where can I get them.
When you mentioned drive trane problem.. this thing has been banged a few times. I try to be careful but its easy to fall into a crater in this area. What sort of trouble should I be looking for? I do get alot of rear diff hum off throttle - but I have a LTW Fly Wheel, HD Pressure plate and HD Clutch from Rogue..thinking that is the culprit on the noise.
I would like to do the studs and the bushings. Where can I get them- if you have the info handy.
Thanks very much
Open to any other helpful tips you have ..like rear camber adjustment- I went with the K -Mac front and sent back the rears after I saw what a nightmare adjusting them would be.
I understand that if you use lowering spring you add a negative degree of camber to the car anyway?
Car is nicely prepared awaiting the Twin Screw Supercharger .
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| Reply » Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!! |
Everything Daniel said.
At a minimum, if you have severe alignment problems, you'd get really funny wear on the tires (I would think "cupping" of the tread edge). If you're already seeing that, it could be bad enough to put additional wear on the wheel and/or differential bearings and CVJs. You don't want to let this go too long without correction.
You won't know if you bent what the studs screw into until you put some staight studs back in there. Then measure off points under the chassis that can be referenced from each side (transmission mount bolts come to mind...). Measure straight back and also cross-wise (dimension should be equal for rightside/leftside). The studs just screw into the body, but you'll need a really deep socket (I made up one just for that purpose) or a Gearwrench, if there's enough swinging room.
By all means, install the Ireland bushings (available from Ireland Engineering) while you have everything apart. These are the bushings that the studs pass through.
Given your set of circumstances, I cannot say I'd recommend putting the butt strut back on.
Supercharger, eh? Then you should give some consideration to the differential to body mount (at the cover). Take a good look while you're under there for signs of impending doom...
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| Reply » Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!! |
Well, hmmm. I wouldnt put that butt strutt back on. Maybe if you fabricated a brush guard or something for it to keep it from catching things.
I remember bob saying at a fix it day that it reminded him of the landing hook on a navy plane...
Cant think of a better way to describe it.
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| Reply » Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!! |
Thanks to all- maybe I will attach the butt strut for track days only- takes just a few minutes to install..since I do pads, rotors and wheels already.
I will take your advice check out the few items for wear- tires are wearing pretty evenly so I might be lucky.
Just replace the the tranny mount with Rogue HD mount- no signs of issues there either.
I really like thay darn butt strut..wonder if others using it have had same problem.
I guess for the few hundred bucks- might as well have the studs done at the shop so I don't complicate the issue.
Any guidance out there on who is the pre-eminent MZ3 Chassis set up guru- looking for solid base line for track application to compare notes on-
Suspension choices
Bump stups
Alignment- front and rear Caster, camber, toe
Ride height
Sway bar
IF any one is interested I could detail what I have and what I the car is doing- I think its good and balanced but would like to know what track set ups are working ( not auto X)
Thanks again
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Attn randy Forbes- Butt Strut Problem!!