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Thanks Randy
Several 'festers were struggling with the subframe bushing install on my e30, when we decided to see if you were online. Pinecone PM'd you after we'd spent what seemed like hours trying to remove them, and you called us back. Here's a picture of the last piece of the bushing we couldn't get out. Pinecone said that you advised (along with just banging it out), that maybe it would be wise if it was the owner that did the banging.  Worked like a charm. Thanks again!  Alex | | Reply » Thanks Randy |
Yeah, I'm contemplating doing it to my E30 in a few weeks. Did it to my Coupe a month or so ago and it's great.
| | Reply » Thanks Randy |
Quote: Several 'festers were struggling with the subframe bushing install on my e30, when we decided to see if you were online. Pinecone PM'd you after we'd spent what seemed like hours trying to remove them, and you called us back.
Here's a picture of the last piece of the bushing we couldn't get out. Pinecone said that you advised (along with just banging it out), that maybe it would be wise if it was the owner that did the banging.
Worked like a charm. Thanks again!
Alex | Alex,
Every once in a while, you just get lucky 
I had never taken an E-30 apart, so I really couldn't offer much useful information. But based on what Terry was telling me (and I know him to describe strictly factual situations) there just didn't sound like there was anything but a little corrosion or compressed aluminum holding them in place.
You'd really be ticked off if you'd have seen how easy the subframe dropped out of the M Rdstr I'm working on tonight. I just lowered the jack and the subframe slid ALL the way off the studs. It seems that lowering it without the differential on the subframe balances it better and there's no binding on the studs. I pulled the differential a few days ago because of other work I'm doing on that car.
Glad it all worked out in the end 
| | Reply » Thanks Randy |
How fortunate you are to have a lift to do the work.
I did it three times on my back, but it did get easier each time, and I never experienced what you did. If I did, I would probably still be on my back on the first car 
The special tool is a must!
Randy & DWM, are very very helpful when you need them.....even when you're in the middle of the Pacific!
| | Reply » Thanks Randy |
Quote: So the special tool didn't help that much, huh?
Is the car back on the road yet? Driving impressions? | The tool helped a little, but what you see is the center of the bushing stayed connected to the car body due to corrosion.
The car is still on Pinecone's lift, we've got to install the LSD, a SSK and some other odds and ends this weekend.
Alex
| | Reply » Thanks Randy |
The special tool was for removing the bushings from the subframe. NOT getting the subframe off.
The tool worked great. About 1 minute per bushing.
If you pull an E30 subframe, we now know the way to do it is to disconnect everything you can (we left the e-brake connected to not get into that section. Using a soft hammer first, then a punch, punch the subframe bolts up into the car (remove the rear seat first). Then jam something into the bushing sleeve that fits fairly tight and then start banging it back and forth. There is about 1/2 - 3/4 inch of aluminum sleeve that fits into a tube in teh body. That part was corroded in place. A little back and forth and it will pop loose.
I did put a little grease on the new bushings so if the subframe ever has to be dropped again, it should be a LOT easier.
BTW if you are thinking about doing SS brake lines, do them as part of removing the subframe, the body ends of the lines are above the diff.
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Thanks Randy